Home / New Zealand | 2025

New Zealand | 2025
Chapter 1: Arrival and Getting on the Road
Chapter 2: South of North Island
Chapter 3: North and West Coast of South Island
Chapter 4: South of South Island

New Zealand | 2025

Since at least 2016 and probably earlier, Audrey and I had been planning to travel to Australia and New Zealand after retirement. We had decided to do the more difficult travel first, so riding across Mongolia or doing a lap of South America took priority. New Zealand and Australia would be easy, relatively speaking, so we were saving them for dessert. After taking our four year-long leaves of absence we thought that we would take a year to travel to Australia and New Zealand starting in July or August of 2021, after retiring at the end of June. Of course, that all changed in 2020 when Audrey got sick and then passed away in November. Audrey’s instructions before she passed away were crystal clear, “Ekke, your job is to travel out on your motorbike. What else?” But I too decided to do other trips before going to Australia and New Zealand, such as riding across Central America all the way to the end of the road in Panama or joining GlobeRiders for the Muscat to Munich tour. But now, the time had come to finally ride the last continent.

I planned to ship my bike (the 2021 R1250GSA that is my “retirement” bike) from Vancouver to Auckland, spend two months riding around New Zealand, then ship across to Sydney and spend another four months doing a lap of Australia. The total estimated cost to ship the bike by boat was $9,000 plus the cost of a Carnet de Passages. Shocked by this price I had a look at buying a bike and thought that might be a better, more economical option. In the meantime, I also thought that six months was a long time to be away as my mom’s mental health was slowly deteriorating so I changed my plan to do New Zealand on its own in 2025 and then Australia in 2026. This made it even more reasonable to buy a bike rather than shipping my own.

My plan was to go to New Zealand from January to March. In September I started looking for used bikes for sale in New Zealand. I found a few older motorbikes similar to bikes I have owned and liked for very reasonable prices. A friend whom Audrey and I met in Africa (see Kenya chapter) now lives in Nelson on the South Island and was willing to help with the purchase, registration, and eventual sale. I then contacted a few BMW motorcycle dealerships and asked if they would be willing to entertain a buy back plan. Experience Motorcycles of Auckland came back and said they would be able to do that and their estimate for the price difference (between buying it and selling it back to them) was very reasonable. Plus, they would take care of the registration and the Warrant of Fitness, so I didn’t need to bother George in Nelson. In November, the perfect motorcycle showed up at Experience Motorcycles, a 2019 BMW R1250GSA, very similar to my retirement bike. John at Experience Motorcycles put it away and I sent a deposit to hold it. Then a few weeks before flying to New Zealand I paid the remainder in full. I owned a motorcycle in New Zealand!

My new bike: a 2019 BMW R1250GSA

Chapter 1: Arrival and Getting on the Road

January 10 to 12 - Calgary to Auckland

Heading to Auckland over Vancouver and Fiji. Leaving on Friday and arriving on Sunday, what happened to Saturday?!? Said goodbye to my Sweetheart, I can’t express how much I miss her. Especially for this trip because we had been planning for this since 2017 when we returned from South America. It was to be our retirement trip in 2021.

Goodbye Sweetheart

Rain in Calgary in January? That's unusual.

Bye to the Rocky Mountains

Transferring in Fiji to the flight for Auckland

Landing in Auckland, first views of New Zealand

Arrived at noon on Sunday, January 12 so plenty of time to go for a stroll. The Ferry Building by the docks.

The iconic Sky Tower

January 13 - Auckland

Day 1 in New Zealand: hiking Coast to Coast! OK, it was in hindsight, perhaps a little overly ambitious at 16 kilometres and climbing two volcanoes. But it was a great introduction to the next 2.5 months of travel. I took the bus from downtown Auckland to Onehura where I walked to Taumanu beach and dipped my toes in the Tasman Sea on the western coast of New Zealand. Then started walking east, through lovely Victorian and Edwardian era neighbourhoods up to the One Tree Hill. There was no One Tree at the top as it had been chopped down in 2000 by Maori protesting colonialism. In 2016 a small grove of trees was planted with the hope one of them will eventually grow up to be the new One Tree. Then it was on to climb Mount Eden, another extinct volcano, with its spectacular view of downtown Auckland. A stop for a late lunch at the Rueben café of mushroom and cheese pie and then back to hotel where I took advantage of the washing machine in my suite before finishing my walk to the east coast. No place to dip my toes in in the waters of the Pacific at the docks though. 25,000 steps and 20 km with 383 metres of elevation gain and loss. Oi, I am a bit sore.

Take a bus across town to the start of the walk

Dipping my toes in the Tasman Sea

And I'm off to the other coast!

The Blockhouse in Jellico Park

A memorial gate to fallen soldiers

Walking through lovely neighbourhoods

It really is summertime here with roses in full bloom

Monument on top of One Tree Hill

This clump of trees will eventually become the new One Tree

Looking back at the start of the walk to the Tasman Sea

Looking back at One Tree Hill as I continue walking north

Acacia Cottage is the oldest building in Auckland and the oldest wooden building in New Zealand

Sir John Campell

There is a Tesla in Alberta with the same licence plate

Climbed Mt. Eden for a spectacular view of Auckland and the final destination

Cool!

An empty building on the docks has been turned into an art installation

Inside the building

Made it!

Not able to dip my toes unless I jump into the harbour

A lovely evening for a stroll back to the hotel

The route (in reverse) shows 14 kilometres but I took a couple of wrong turns...

Oof, no wonder I am a bit sore

January 14 - Auckland

New bike day! After breakfast at the Best Ugly Bagel café I took a bus over to Experience Motorcycles and met John. My new bike was ready and all the paperwork just needed to be signed. Then Marty drove me over to the Automobile Association office to complete the registration. Really, it was that easy! Back at the shop I installed my tank bag (so that my keep left sticker was visible) and started riding. I didn’t make it very far when a bakery forced me to stop. After a blueberry scone with an Earl Grey tea I finished the ride to the hotel. Here I installed some important stickers. Now I really am ready for the next 2.5 months.

Meet John Mackinlay in person after corresponding by email for a couple of months

There it is, my new bike! A 2019 BMW R1250GSA.

Ready to ride!

Tank bag has the appropriate safety warning

Keep left, look right. Keep left, look right.

I didn't make it very far. A bakery sucked me in.

A scone and a cuppa tea

Install a couple of stickers on the bike

A warning to those behind me

January 15 - Auckland

Well, that was an unexpectedly emotional day. But let's start at the beginning. When I went to Best Ugly Bagels for breakfast I was surprised that they already know my name. Anyway, after breakfast I was walking to the Auckland Museum through the university campus when I noticed an email on my phone from an unknown person about the motorcycle I am riding. Curious, I opened the message from Ronit. She and her husband Sagi owned my new bike previously and saw my website. Her email talked about her connection with Audrey based on the front page because she too was battling cancer. She described how going for a ride on the bike during pauses from the chemo made her appreciate life and the joy that comes from riding. I was overwhelmed with emotion and had to sit down. I emailed back and we arranged to meet that afternoon. I toured the museum and returned to the hotel to pick up the bike then rode across the Harbour Bridge and had lunch on the north shore at the Naval Museum café. Then at 4:00 I met Ronit and Sagi. We shared stories and tears. It is so wonderful to know the story of this bike. It is no longer an inanimate object, it has a soul. I feel so privileged to be able to ride it and add to its story.

Making the best ugly bagels

Walking through Albert Park

The clock tower building is on the university campus

I was here when I received the email from Ronit

The Auckland Museum

Lest We Forget - This is also Auckland's War Memorial

Polynesian immigration from 5,000 years ago until just 800 years ago when the Māori landed in Aotearoa

A small sailing catamaran

A huge war canoe (haka)

Portraits of Māori on display

Riding across the Harbour Bridge

Lunch at the Naval Museum cafe of a mince pie and a ginger beer

That's a nice looking bike

Meeting Sagi and Ronit

Riding back across the Harbour Bridge with lovely view of downtown Auckland and a racing catamaran

January 16 - Auckland to Thames

The tour of New Zealand has officially started! I left Auckland and specifically stayed off the motorway, rambling through the suburbs. They reminded me of communities like Bowness or Forest Lawn in Calgary; they seemed like they would have been separate towns at one time. Out in the country it was lovely riding on small roads with little traffic. Arrived in Thames (named by Captain Cook as he thought the river looked like the one in London (?)) too early for check in but in time for a late lunch at a bakery café.

A morning stroll for bagels

A bag to go

The bike is loaded up

Let's get this started!

Once out of the big city it is lovely riding

Get off the motorway as soon as possible to take the Pacific Coast Highway

Downtown Thames, a former gold mining town

Too early for check in so stop at the Bakehouse Cafe

The Rolleston Motel in Thames

January 17 - Thames (round trip of the Coromandel Peninsula)

What a lovely ride around the Coromandel Peninsula! Ursula contacted me via the Adventure Riding New Zealand Facebook group and we arranged to ride around the peninsula torgether. It’s so nice to have local guide the way!
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January 18 - Thames to Whangārei

Well, that didn’t last long. The plan that is. Yesterday I noticed that a rubber boot on the driveshaft was loose. I tried to put it back on but no luck. Since Thames wasn’t that far from Auckland I arranged to return to Experience Motorcycles. When I arrived they took it in right away and were able to reinstall the boot but said the boot should be replaced. The part should arrive by next Tuesday and they could book me in with service for Thursday. Ah. Now it didn’t make sense to go south to Rotorua, just to come back north and south again. Francis, the service rep, suggested going north instead. So I am heading north to Cape Reinga, rather than doing that at the end of the trip. I made a reservation at the Comfort Hotel in Whangārei (the Wh sound is like a soft "F" or a hard "V" in Māori). Let's go! Well, a stop at The Baker's Cottage for a mince pie first. Obviously. It was a lovely ride once out of Auckland and away from the motorway. After check in and over dinner at the Flames restaurant I got out the maps and did a little planning. I decided to book the Old Oak Hotel in Mangōnui for two nights and then go up and down to Cape Reinga. After going for an evening stroll the hotel owner came over and said he would be more comfortable if I parked my motorcycle under cover and he would park the hotel's Previa van in front of it. Sure, safety first.

The rubber boot has come loose, allowing dirt and grit to get into the driveshaft

Departure from Thames

Motorway north to Auckland

After getting the boot reinstalled and making a service appointment I was ready to head north. Almost.

A mince and cheese pie first...

Pretty countryside once out of the city and off the motorway

Huge sculptures on the hill but without signage I can't tell if it is open to the public

Time for the zoom lens then

An Australasian Swamphen is a little closer

Home for the night

Nice view from my balcony

Road maps and weather maps. What to do? Decided to ride to Mangōnui, stay for two nights and then go up and down to the Cape.

After dinner stroll

Good thing I had all that practice with suspension bridges in Nepal (and yes, I count for two people)

Mangrove swamp

January 19 - Whangārei to Mangōnui

Quite a wet ride today as I head north towards Cape Reinga. Found a fun “high risk” road from the Twisting Throttle book but the wet conditions took some of the fun out of it. I wasn’t sure how much time I was going to spend at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds but a guided tour was just scheduled to leave when I showed up so I joined them. Fascinating history of New Zealand and the relationship with the Māori after the treaty signing in 1840. By 1860 the Crown had started taking advantage of the Māori (selling Māori land without their approval) and by 1877 the treaty was essentially nullified with the Māori forced to assimilate. After a short cultural show I got back in the rain gear and finished my wet ride to Mangōnui where I had booked the Old Oak Hotel.

Well this should be fun then

Actually went pretty close to the posted speed in the wet

And it certainly was wet

Even a short ferry ride included with today's fun (NZ$8.50)

Entrance to the Waitangi Treat Grounds

Our enthusiastic guide

The haka built for the centennial anniversary of the treaty in 1940

It is a large canoe

200 warriors (all men until Princess Diana asked if she could have a ride), 35 metres long and 9 tons

James Busby's British Residency is the Treaty House

A cultural show included with the ticket price

Back on a wet motorcycle

Okay, I get it

Audrey would have loved this boutique hotel

Built in 1861

I wasn't expecting such a spacious and bright room (with a covered patio out back to dry out the motorcycle rain gear)

January 20 - Mangōnui to Cape Reinga and back

Up to the Far North! A wet and foggy ride to Cape Reinga, the northern-most point in New Zealand. Legend has it that the Māori came to New Zealand here 800 years ago. This is also the point from which souls of the dead depart this earth. From ‘Inspired Traveller’s Guide: Spiritual Places’ by Sarah Baxter: “Their life essence is said to travel to the far north, sweeping up the coast. It will pass near to the Waipoua Forest, home to the tree known as Tane Mahuta, a giant kauri estimated to have an age of 1,250 to 2,500 years. Next, the spirit will skim along wild Ninety Mile Beach (actually 64 miles long) to the tip of Cape Reinga. Here, it will slide down Te Aka, a root of the wizened pohutukawa tree that is reputed to be 800 years old, and travel underwater beneath Te Ripo-a-Mauria-nuku, the powerful current at the collision of the oceans. This leads it to Manawatawhi (last breath), the largest of the uninhabited Three Kings Islands. The spirit climbs up to the island’s highest point for a final look back at the world. Then it plunges into the deep, to return to Hinenuitepo’s safe-keeping.” In my mind I saw Audrey gliding up 90 Mile Beach and slip beneath the waves. On the way back I popped over to 90 Mile Beach on a muddy, slippery gravel road. Once through the soft sand, it was fairly firm on the beach itself. Not firm enough to put the sidestand down though. Would have been fun to ride the whole length but not with this weather and I didn’t check the tide tables…

Pick up picnic supplies to have at Cape Reinga (not remembering that one isn't allowed to take food to this sacred place)

Gas up

Damp, foggy and windy

Approaching Cape Reinga

There should be a lighthouse out there somewhere

That's it!

You can imagine souls slipping into the water here

Vancouver 11,222 km north and Bluff 1,452 km south. Let's go!

The furthest north I will go on this trip. It's all south from here.

Heading south

A muddy gravel road leads for 10 km to 90 Mile Beach

Then a soft sand section

And we're on the beach! Should I go back north? Maybe not today.

Finally found a patch of sand firm enough to put the sidestand down

Southward bound

Back in Mangōnui for some fabulous fish and chips at the Mangōnui Fish Shop (apparently it's quite famous)

OK, we're not in Canada anymore

Cape Reinga Relive video
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January 21 - Mangōnui to Dagraville

Big Trees! Rode from Mangōnui to Dagraville via the Waipoua Forest and its enormous kauri trees. For some reason the GPS was hell bent in getting me on some gravel roads. I declined at first as it suggested about 80 km of wet, muddy track. Rerouting (and reprogramming the device to avoid gravel roads) it again suggested a gravel road, rather than going to Highway 1, but I was a few kilometres in when it turned to gravel so didn’t want to backtrack. About 20 kilometres of wet, slippy mud later I had a nice and dirty GS. After lunch of a granola bar and a cappuccino at a roadside stand the GPS again took me on a gravel track but by now it had stopped raining (mostly) so the dry gravel was more fun. Eventually I did make it to Waipoua Forest and to Tāne Mahuta, also called "God of the Forest". The largest tree in the forest, with a 16 metre circumference, is between 1,200 and 2,500 years old. Another stop a short way down the road at the Four Sisters (four conjoined kauri trees) was a bit of a bust as the trail to those trees was closed. But still it was lovely 10 minute stroll in the forest to the closed trail. On to Dagraville (founded in 1872 for gum and timber trade) where I stayed at Hobson's Choice.

Lovely old Vauxhall. Nice to see these classics being used.

Finally relented and took the gravel roads the GPS insisted I take

Quintessential New Zealand (though to be honest, I haven't seen that many sheep farms)

Gravel roads are more fun when they're not wet and muddy

Sign to God of the Forest

A fungus is killing the kauri trees so it is mandatory to santize one's footwear going in and out of the forest

There is the Big Boy

There is the Big Boy

A short ride through the forest to the Four Sisters walk

A lovely stroll through the forest

The Four Sisters (four conjoined kauri trees) are closed to the public because of the risk of the fungus causing a dieback

Lovely kauri tree right beside the trail though

Riding through the kauri forest

Arriving in Dagraville on the shores of the Northern Wairoa River

The town was founded on the gum and timber industry

New Zealand has plenty of clean public toilets

Check in

January 22 - Dagraville to Auckland

It has been a great week of travelling up to Cape Reinga, but there has been something missing. Something I couldn’t quite place my finger on. But I found it.
I am back in Auckland to get the rubber boot on the driveshaft replaced. I think I will take an extra day here to update the website with the first chapter of the New Zealand section before resuming my southward journey. My first impressions of New Zealand are really positive, it's a lovely country with very friendly people. I like how the motels almost always have a kitchenette and they are well stocked with tea and a kettle (rather than a coffee maker in North America).

Yes! Found at a large Woolworths grocery store.

Heading back to Auckland

Very nice riding

The El Camino lives! I think the car/pickup comes from Australia

Stopped for lunch in Helensville (though not at the classic post office)

Tracks in New Zealand so far

More detailed map but in black and white

Next Chapter: South of North

Chapter 2: South of North Island

January 25 - Auckland to Te Kūiti

After getting the driveshaft boot replaced at Experience Motorcycles, I was ready to resume my trip. Friday evening, I had a nice Italian meal at Paparazzi that reminded me so much of our 30th anniversary dinner at the Italian Farmhouse in Bragg Creek that I had to share it with Audrey. Saturday morning, I packed up from the Quest Mt. Eden hotel and jumped on the motorway to get out of Auckland. Google Maps showed a few slowdowns (every time I have been on the motorway there have been crashes with long queues of traffic) so I planned to get off the motorway as soon as practical and have a look at the map over a cup of tea. At the Beans & Leaves Café in Papakura I had a great chai latte and a delicious date scone while I reviewed my route. I took the Hunua Gorge road out of town and went to take a picture using my pocket camera when I noticed the Write Protect was on. I pulled over to fix it and noticed that the pocket with my phone was unzipped. The phone was missing! I turned around and rode slowly back to the cafe but saw no shattered phone along the road. As I pulled into the parking lot I saw a woman looking at the ground near where I had parked. There it was! Whew. OK, let’s try that again. Back on the Hunua Road I had to pull over again, because in all the excitement I hadn’t turned off the Write Protect. Thank goodness the rest of the ride was less dramatic. I had a picnic lunch in The Shire, near Hobbiton. If I would have been more of a Lord of the Rings fan (and been shorter) I would have gone on the tour. Lovely riding after lunch along Highway 30 as the road flowed through open countryside all the way to Te Kūiti, home of Sir Colin Meads, New Zealand's player of the 20th century. Delicious Jerk Chicken salad and a ginger beer at the Stoked Eatery rounded out the day.

Italian dinner with Audrey (just like our 30th anniversary dinner)

The power had gone out so the bill was printed and I had to pay with cash (good thing I had stopped at an ATM)

Hunua Gorge road out of town (with phone in pocket this time)

Lots of classic cars in New Zealand, like this '66 Chrysler Imperial

In the Shire, close to Hobbiton

Picnic in the Shire

Wide open Highway 30

Oh, I hope not

Mainstreet Te Kūiti

Jerk Chicken Salad and Ginger Beer at the old railway station

January 26 - Te Kūiti to Rotorua

Last night the wind and rain were pounding outside, so I was glad that it was just a light rain when I got up. Yesterday I had ridden the southern half of the Chapter 11 route in the Twisting Throttle book (the lovely, open Highway 30) so the plan for today was to complete the loop. This part was a bit tricky in that there were a lot of junctions on small roads. Fortunately, Mike Hyde had included GPS coordinates for the junctions so I had preprogrammed the route last night. Now it was a simple matter of following the directions on the GPS. This was indeed fairly straightforward but complicated by the rain which made it difficult to read the GPS through the faceshield. But, it was lovely riding on some really remote roads, with almost no traffic. I had passed by the Dam Village Cafe yesterday and there was a group of motorcyclists sitting outside so I made that my lunch destination. I was really looking forward to that New Zealand staple; a pie for lunch. But alas their pie making machine was in for upgrades, so I had to make do with a sausage and fries. (Not even close to my dream currywurst.) Light rain for the remaining hour to Rotorua. I could smell Rotorua's sulphurous hot springs from 8 kilometres out of town. And then the heavens opened up, with water bucketing down, making it even more challenging to follow the GPS. And of course, I made a sopping wet mess of the lobby when I checked in. After an afternoon inside, out of the rain, I ventured outside for supper as the rain let up to a light drizzle. Vietnamese food was a good choice and then I went for a walk to the lakeshore and around to Government Gardens. Too bad the famous museum building (apparently the most photographed building in New Zealand) was under wraps as it is being restored from earthquake damage.

A wet start to the day

Lovely, quiet backroads

Tough reading the GPS for directions

Stopped under a tree for a break and looked back. What nice riding. And I can understand why it is all so green.

Best bakery by a dam site

Only 63 kilometres but many, many litres of water

Hey, it beats -20 Celsius and snow

Check in at the Quest hotel and I was given an accessible room. I have the full Hobbiton experience right here!

The rose garden inside Government Gardens in Rorotua

The Rorotua Museum is being renovated after being damaged in an earthquake

Hotpools even in the garden

January 27 – Rotorua

Today dawned so sunny that yesterday's downpour seemed like a dream. Because of the long weekend (Happy Auckland Foundation Day!) the hotel was almost fully booked, and I was given an accessible room. The counter tops are so low that I feel like I didn’t miss Hobbiton. I rode over to Te Puia, a Māori cultural experience centre. While we didn’t get to visit the village where 70 families live, our guide was very informative as we toured the geothermal area, talking of Māori traditions and seeing kiwis in their nocturnal habitat. We missed Pohutu geyser's eruption though it was still fascinating to watch it steaming away on its mineralized terraces. Afterwards there was a cultural show where our chief, Gary from Saskatchewan, was welcomed by the Māori before we could enter. Inside, the dancing was very similar to the show at the Waitamo Treaty Centre. While having lunch in the Te Puia cafeteria, I received a text from John Fitzwater, whom I had met in Mexico on the way to Panamá. He was in town with a tour group that he was leading with his company Go Tour NZ and invited me to join them for dinner at Leonardo’s on Eat Street. It was great reconnecting with John after almost 3.5 years and it was nice to meet the three couples on the 21-day tour. If you have limited time, I can certainly see the advantages of a tour.

Our guide at Te Puia helps with Māori pronunciation

Houses dug into the ground for insulation in winter and cool earthen floor in summer

Geothermal area

Pohutu geyser between eruptions

What beautiful colours

Bubbling mud pool

Entry to the craft studios

Welcoming committee for the cultural dance

They send out their fiercest warrior to test our chief

Our chief, Gary from Saskatchewan, passes the test and we are allowed to enter

Cultural dance

Ride over to Government Gardens for a photo

Too bad about the restoration work

A photograph in the hotel is a bit of a teaser

Walking along the waterfront I spotted this unique vehicle

Ah, that's why it is unique. Built not Bought.

Meet up with John Fitzwater at Leonardo's restaurant

The last time I met John was in 2021, riding together from Mazatlan to San Miguel de Allende

Lovely evening in Rotorua

January 28 - Rotorua to Tūrangi

It wasn’t a long ride from Rotorua to Tūrangi, going around Lake Taupō, so I made sure to stop a few times. First was a scenic overlook at Taupō where I saw a sign for Huka Falls so made a slight detour to the outfall from Lake Taupō. It was more of a chute than a falls but pretty, nonetheless. Back home I had seen a Māori carving on the shore of Lake Taupō on a map so had made a note of visiting it. I parked at the trailhead but a sign indicated the carving was only visible by boat. Oh well, I went for a nice stroll in the woods anyway, so that I had a nice view of the lake. Back on the bike I rode to a picnic spot high above the lake for lunch, for the last of the Ugly Bagels. Then I made my way to National Park Village (the highest town in New Zealand) where I met Michelle. Back in Canada a friend had loaned me the wonderful book, Twisting Throttle by Kiwi Mike Hyde. I didn’t want to take the book to NZ in fear of damaging it, so I asked on a forum if anyone knew where to buy it. Michelle piped up and said I could have her copy as she was cleaning house anyway. So we met at the Schnapps Bar in National Park. She invited a couple of other friends, and we spent a good three hours chatting (not having schnapps!). It really is the people that make a trip, isn’t it? On the way back north to Tūrangi I stopped at a viewpoint and met a couple in a rented motorhome from Bath in England. We chatted for a while, again showing that it is the people you meet that make a trip. I was a bit late getting to the Judges Pool Motel, but I wouldn’t have traded meeting these people just to sit in a motel room by myself.

Leaving Rotorua

Easy riding to Taupō

Lovely scenic view over Lake Taupō

Huka Falls (more of a chute if you ask me)

That's a shame. Might as well go for a little walk in the woods anyway.

Nice track down to the lake

The sailboat had lots of people relaxing on board, I bet they were coming back from the Maori carvings.

What a spectacular view.

And an even better picnic place (that's the last of the Best Ugly Bagels until I return to Auckland in March)

Heading down to National Park Village I get a preview of tomorrow's hike with a view of Mount Ngauruhoe

Meet up with Michelle (she gave me Mike Hyde's book; Twisting Throttle), Julie and Dene

January 29 – Tūrangi (hiking in Tongariro National Park)

Judging by how sore I am, maybe I should be a little less ambitious with my NZ day hikes. I rode 45 kilometres to the trailhead at Whakapapa Village in a light rain and hoped it would clear up when I got there. It did, and I tramped to the Tama Lakes in Tongariro National Park. Return, the trek is about 18 km and it took me 5 hours and 20 minutes. But it is so nice to get out for hike. You may recognize the perfectly conical mountain in the photos, it is Mount Ngauruhoe, but played a starring role in Lord of the Rings as Mount Doom. I got back to the bike at about 5:00 PM and rode the 45 kilometres back to Tūrangi (no rain) where I showered up and then walked over to a restaurant for supper.

Chateau Tongariro, built in 1929 but closed in 2023 due to seismic risk, would have been perfect for afternoon tea after the hike

Still fresh and starting to hike

Mount Ruapehu

I love the camouflage toilet

Mount Ngauruhoe, also known as Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings

At the Lower Tama Lake

Upper Tama Lake below Mount Ngauruhoe

Lunch time in the shelter of a low rock wall

Coming back down to the Lower Tama Lake

Coming back down the other side I get to see Taranaki Falls

Taranaki Falls

It was so cloudy in the morning that I didn't realise the best view of Mount Ngauruhoe was from the car park

A sight for sore feet

The distance doesn't seem right (even considering I walked for dinner) but I sure felt every one of those steps and floors

January 30 - Tūrangi to New Plymouth

The Forgotten World Highway. Just the name was enough to make me want to ride it. Leaving Tūrangi I rode to Taumarunui to start the 150 kilometre road. I like how it started with open ranch land and then changed to thick jungle, reminding me of Jurassic Park, as I went west. The narrow Moki tunnel built in 1936, in the Tangarakau Gorge, was one of the highlights of the ride. Soon I was in the Republic of Whangamomona and its famous hotel where I chatted with a couple of locals as soon as I had my helmet off. Inside I ordered the boerderse sausage and went back out to have a chat with a couple of riders on rented Triumphs. They were from the UK on a three-week trip to New Zealand and had come up the FWH from Stratford while I had come down from Taumarunui. After the delicious farmer's sausage, I continued west, crossing a few “saddles” where the road became even more entertaining, to Stratford. Here I joined the main road to New Plymouth where the Metrotel Hotel was waiting for me.

43 kilometres to the start of the Forgotten World Highway

And so it begins

Open sheep ranching country

Now the fun begins

Lush vegetation reminds me of Jurassic Park

The Moki Tunnel built in 1936

Welcome to the Republic

Chat with locals outside before ordering lunch

Lekker!

The Whangamomona Saddle begins with a switchback and the fun just continues after that

Entering New Plymouth

A stroll along the seashore

The sculpture is called "The Girls"

The Forgotten World Highway

January 31 – New Plymouth

In the spirit of not going overboard with my NZ day hikes I decided to do a shorter hike. Only 8 kilometres round trip up the side of Mt. Taranaki. OK, 750 metres elevation might have been a bit much. Going up the Holly Hut Track it was stairs. A lot of stairs. And the whole hike up and down from Tahurangi Hut was in the clouds, so none of the promised spectacular views. Oh well, it was good exercise. Back down in New Plymouth I thought it would be neat to walk to Te Rewa Rewa bridge, a really iconic structure with a view of the volcano I had just climbed. So that added 9 kilometres to my total for the day. Thank goodness the clouds had cleared from Mt. Taranaki so that the walk was worth it.

Ride to the trailhead at North Egmont

Let's go!

Hey a few stairs

And some more stairs

And it just keeps going, but apparently it is more dangerous now

A section without stairs as the clouds lift for a moment and you can see the track cutting up the mountain

Oh good, some more stairs

My lunch spot at Tahurangi Lodge (closed)

Yum

Down is via an access road, so no stairs

Back in New Plymouth I head out for a walk along the seawall

4.5 kilometres to the Te Rewa Rewa bridge, lovely in the setting sun

From the other direction it frames Mt. Taranaki perfectly

The hike up the volcano

Perspective on the whole volcano

A nice walk to Te Rewa Rewa adds 9 km to my total for the day

February 1 - New Plymouth to Palmerston North

Thanks to Sagi, the previous owner of my motorbike, for suggesting the Whanganui River Road! I had thought of going straight to Wellington from New Plymouth but once I looked up his suggestion I changed my plans. I tried to find a place to stay in Whanganui but there was nothing available (world championship jet boat racing!) so decided to go to Palmerston North and just do an up and down on the River Road. I left New Plymouth and rode along the ocean so that I was circumnavigating Mt. Taranaki. Near the start of the Whanganui River Road was a perfect picnic spot for lunch (crumpets with Nutella!). The Whanganui River holds a special place in Māori history and was conferred person status in 2017. Apparently, there was a steamboat service all the way up to Taumarunui (start of the Forgotten World Highway) that started in 1892. I rode about 50 km upstream on the fun road next to the river and stopped at Jerusalem. I turned around here and rode back down so I could make it to Palmerston North by dinner time. Once I checked into the motel, I looked on Google Maps for a nearby restaurant and found the Beaver & Bear. That didn’t sound especially New Zealandish. Nope, Canadiana. A Calgarian burger with a side of poutine please…

Leaving New Plymouth

Starting my circumnavigation of Mt. Taranaki

Mt. Taranaki

I have seen a few wrecked cars in the ditch. I wonder if they leave them there for a while as a reminder to other motorists?

Yes!

64 kilometres of twisting road? Yes!

But first, a picnic. I couldn't imagine a more perfect place for a picnic.

I wonder if crumpets go with Nutella?

Why yes, they do.

OK, let's ride

Turn around at Jerusalem, about 50 km up the road

Dinner in Palmerston North is at the Beaver & Bear. A Canadian restaurant!

Since I am from Calgary...

I am going to have to do a lot of hiking to work this off

February 2 – Groundhog Day! Palmerston North to Wellington

A nice Groundhog Day ride to Wellington. I could have zipped down the 2 and been there in a bit over an hour but what would be the fun in that? So I took a smattering of local roads until I connected with Highway 52 (mentioned in Twisting Throttle) to Masterton. I expected a numbered highway to have higher traffic volumes but it wasn’t until Highway 2 that it was busy with Groundhog Day traffic. Even though it was nose to tail traffic going over the Remutaka Pass it was still fun. Lots of motorcycles out too. Then it was the first view of Wellington (well, what you could see of it behind an enormous cruise ship) where I will spend a few days. I am catching the ferry to the South Island on Wednesday.

I love it when the local transport authority tells you that you will be having fun!

Yes, it was windy

Lovely riding on small local roads

No traffic to speak of

Small one-lane bridges

Caught this layby at the last second and had to ride up the exit

Lunch in the layby right beside the busy Highway 2

Wellington! Behind the cruise ship...

The parking garage at my hotel in downtown Wellington

Up she goes!

Time for the annual traditional movie

February 3 and 4 – Wellington

I have had a lovely couple of days in Wellington. I was really looking forward to visiting Te Papa, the National Museum, and I was not disappointed. Two of the exhibitions really stood out; the Nature exhibit covering New Zealand flora and fauna as well as geology and climate change was simply world class. The second exhibit that really stood out was Gallipoli, the story of New Zealand's involvement in the First World War. I have to say though, the highlight of the museum for me was the Britten motorcycle, what an amazing work of original thinking and engineering. I climbed up to the Mt. Victoria lookout after the museum and while there I saw someone ride by on an Energica motorcycle. I have been interested in these electric motorbikes for a while and had joined an Energica forum on Facebook. Later at a coffee shop I posted on the forum (an international forum with a world-wide membership) if anyone in the group was at Mt. Victoria. Sure enough, Simon responded (one of 8 Energica owners in NZ) that it was him and we arranged to meet for lunch the next day. To me, this is really what Facebook is fantastic for, connecting people. Speaking of connecting with people, Gareth and Helen rode through Africa at about the same time as Audrey and me, but we never crossed paths. They live in Wellington and a mutual friend, George, whom we had both met in Africa, connected us. We met for a quick coffee and then they invited me over for dinner the next day. What wonderful stories we shared of our time in Africa! And what a great way to finish the south of the North Island, next I take the ferry to the South Island and stay with George for a few days before heading further south.

The National Museum of New Zealand

One of two really excellent exhibitions

Kiwi birds

Good to know

A sobering graph of CO2 and Temperature

This exhibition was also absolutely excellent

The Britten V1000

What an amazing work of engineering

The shock absorber under the front of the engine is for the rear wheel

Holographic images on a scale sailboat told the stories of sailing the Pacific

Wandering through neighbourhoods in Wellington on the way to Mt. Victoria

The view of Wellington from the top of Mt. Victoria

The Carter Fountain is Wellington's Jet d'Eau

Iced coffee on Oriental Parade

New Zealand's parliament buildings

The Beehive, the executive wing of parliament

With Helen and Gareth, who had travelled the length of Africa at about the same as Audrey and I did

Tracks for Chapter 2

Link to Chapter 3: North and West Coast of South Island

Chapter 3: North and West Coast of South Island

February 5 and 6 – Wellington to Nelson

On Wednesday I took the afternoon ferry across the Cook Straight from Wellington to Picton on the South Island. It was a lovely, calm crossing and I met George Guille at a café in Picton. Audrey and I had met George in Ethiopia in 2008 and crossed the equator together. Last time I saw him was in Nairobi almost exactly 17 years ago. We rode over some twisty roads to Nelson where I got to meet his partner Kat and their 4.5-month-old daughter, Adele. They invited me to stay for a few nights while we explored the area. On Thursday George took out his classic Africa Twin and we rode north to Tākaka for lunch at the Wholemeal Café. After lunch we rode up to Cape Farewell and then a few kilometres of gravel took us to Wharariki Beach. The rocks offshore are famous for being part of the default Windows background at start up. This is the farthest north one can ride on the South Island.

Bike elevator in the parking garage after checking out of the hotel in Wellington

I can see my ferry coming in from Mt. Victoria

Preparing to load with the other bikers

Steaming out of Wellington

My parents doing the same crossing in 1989

Meet George Guille in Picton. It's been almost exactly 17 years!

Nice back roads from Picton to Nelson

Already can see some of the Southern Alps

The next day, February 6, we head north from Nelson

February 6 is Waitangi Day (Treaty Signing Day) and a national holiday

Hey! Traveland RV in Airdrie? Cool!

Arrival in Tākaka (is it me or are main street New Zealand towns starting to look a bit similar?)

Just in time for lunch

Wharariki Beach is the northern most point on the South Island

Northbound

Walking out to Cape Farewell

Arches and cliffs

Down below a stingray is accompanied by an entourage

Walking to Wharariki Beach

This is where you play the Windows startup sound

Jumping for joy! I made it to the northernmost point on the South Island

Riding back to Nelson

The Tākaka Hill is foggy on the return

February 7 - Nelson

Friday was a day made for visiting. I met up with John Fitzwater again, this time with his 94-year-old mum from the UK over for a visit. I had met her by phone when John and I were riding in Mexico, and she is still as sharp as a tack. The fish & chip shop in Mapua must have accidentally doubled John's order because I could have sworn we received 10 pieces of fish, not 5. Fortunately, we still had room for an ice cream across the street at Alberta's (I should have shown my driver's licence, maybe I would have had a discount?). On the way back I popped into a carwash to give the bike its first wash and then showed it off in front of Yaza! Café while I had an iced chai latte. That evening, since Kat had gone with a friend and their two babies on a camping trip, George and I went to the Free House in Nelson for a drink and ordered in Indian food from across the street. An interesting arrangement where the pub provides the dishes and cutlery while the Indian restaurant sends over the food. I am generally good at getting photos while riding and travelling but for some reason I don't take of photos of people I am visiting. It's a shame really, because I am sure you would have liked to see John and his mum and George, Kat and Adele.

A nice clean bike outside Yaza! Café

A very popular pub in Nelson

The Christ Church Cathedral in Nelson (Modernist Gothic Revival Style apparently)

A stroll down the lively Trafalgar Street

February 8 – Nelson to Punakaiki

Saturday George and I rode to the West Coast, to Punakaiki. We had lunch in Murchison at the River Cafe and then continued down Highway 6 to the Buller Canyon. A cappuccino at Berlins made sure we were ready to tackle the canyon road. Then joined up with the West Coast of the South Island south of Westport and rode along the coast to Punakaiki. We checked into a hotel and walked over to Pancake Rocks. The rock formations are so named because the sedimentary layers look like a stack of pancakes. Before this I thought that New Zealand was like Hawai'i and purely volcanic. But no, this part of New Zealand was formed by uplifting the sea bottom. (If this is an 8th continent maybe I should own 8 motorcycles?) There was a cafe across the street that had stacks of pancakes on the menu. You can guess where we went for breakfast on Sunday.

Departure from Nelson

Love the wide open valleys with small, untrafficked rural roads

Stop for a cappuccino at Berlins, just before the Buller Gorge

Road carved out of the cliff

Reach the west coast of the South Island

George riding along the coast

Check in at the Punakaiki Rocks Hotel

Walk along the seashore to Pancake Rocks

Sedimentary layers made up of limestone and mud do look like a stack of pancakes

The pounding surge channels and blowholes must be amazing during stormy weather

The weka is more common and easier to spot than the kiwi

February 9 – Punakaiki (Karamea return)

Well, you knew this was coming. Sunday morning breakfast just had to be a stack of pancakes at Pancake Rocks Café didn’t it? OK, it may have been a bit over the top, what with the eggs and bacon and all. But at least you could see how they came up with the name of Pancake Rocks. Walking back to the hotel we popped into Punakaiki Cavern for a clamber around and then we hit the road northbound. I wanted to ride to the end of the Coast Road in Karamea and George was headed home to Kat and Adele. We stopped in Westport for a cappuccino and then parted ways. It has been really great reconnecting with George after 17 years. It was on and off rain for the 1.5 hour/100 km ride to Karamea and with the warmish temperatures that meant on and off with the rain gear too. The road over Karamea Bluff was a lot of fun and then it was a straight shot up the coast to the Karamea Hotel (est. 1876) for an Earl Grey tea. A look at the map showed that the road actually went a further 18 km where it ended at Kōhaihai River (and the start of the Heaphy Track). Being a bit of a completionist I had to go there before turning around to ride back to Punakaiki.

George looks on in amazement as my stack of pancakes arrives (hidden under eggs and bacon and tomatoes)

That's a stack of pancakes allright

Just to confirm, yes, pancake rocks does look like a stack of pancakes

Exploring Punakaiki Cavern

Yay! The exit.

Riding north along the coast

In Westport for a cappuccino

Say goodbye to George as he heads home to Nelson and I head north to Karamea

Along the coast north of Westport

One-lane bridges aplenty

Check the map over an Earl Grey tea at the Karamea Hotel. The road goes a few kilometres further before it ends.

North of Karamea

The real end of the Coast Road at Kohaihai River. Also the start of the Heaphy Track that heads east from here for a 5 day tramp.

Back in Westport, riding south

Stopped at the impressive municipal building

Back home in Punakaiki

Sun sets over the Tasman Sea

February 10 – Punakaiki to Christchurch

On Monday morning I left the Punakaiki Rocks Hotel and rode the short distance to the Punangairi Visitor Centre. They had great exhibits on Māori legends, wildlife like the kiwi and kea, the formation of Pancake Rocks and spelunking. Thanks to John Fitzwater for the suggestion! Then it was down the coast before turning east to go over Arthur's Pass. Just before the summit was the Otira Viaduct and a viewpoint. As soon as I pulled up at the viewpoint, I was greeted by a few kea! These rambunctious parrots made a bit of noise and were really inquisitive, so I made sure to secure my belongings before checking out the view. Then it was up and over the pass where I stopped in Arthur's Pass Village for a picnic lunch. There were lots of signs to not feed the kea. Descending from Arthur's Pass I had one more pass to go over, Porters Pass, where the temperature dropped by about six degrees. It was cool all the way across the Canterbury plain into Christchurch. Here I'll take a day off to do a bit of trip planning and get caught up on my journaling.

The Punangairi Visitor Centre

Wonderful Māori legends

No museum in New Zealand is complete without a kiwi

Oh wow, this is a kea (an alpine parrot)

Riding north up the coast

Turn east from the coast and up the Great Alpine Highway

Lots of flat land before we get to the mountains

Climbing Arthur's Pass

Looking back down the pass

Otira Viaduct completed in 1999

As soon as I arrive, a kea comes over to have a look

Beautiful!

Looking up to the summit of Arthur's Pass

After lunch, coming down Arthur's Pass

What's with the cloud bank over Porters Pass?

A cold fog and the temperature drops six degrees

It stays cool all the way to Christchurch

February 11 and 12 – Christchurch to Greymouth

After a day off in Christchurch (trip planning, getting caught up on the website and just reading a good book) I rode over the Lewis Pass back to the West Coast. Compared to passes in the Alps neither Lewis or Arthur’s was especially exciting, but it was really interesting to observe the change in climate between the east and west coasts. In Greymouth (Māwhera) there is a wonderful exhibit with stories at the Pounamu Pathway. The exhibit was made by the same company that did the amazing Gallipoli exhibit in Te Papa, the National Museum in Wellington. I love learning the Māori history, though I hope there isn’t a test on all the names!

Trip planning on a napkin (the best kind of trip planning!)

Heading to the West Coast over the Lewis Pass

Into those hills

OK, heading for the pass

And we're on the other side (with blue sky!). Not much of a pass really.

Arrival in Greymouth

Walking to the museum I came across a lovely little park dedicated to the teachers who lost their lives in WWI

The beautiful museum is very new

An amazing exhibit with the history of Māwhera

The battles the east and west coast Māori fought over the pounamu (greenstone)

Greater than lifesize figures to tell the stories (just like the Gallipoli exhibit in Te Papa)

A really interesting film on daily life in Māwhera before the Pākehā (foreigners) arrived

Back for the west coast sunsets

February 13 Greymouth to Fox Glacier

It wasn't a big distance to cover today (or any day in NZ for that matter) so had a nice slow ride along the coast on the Glacier Highway. The route was mostly inland so no rugged coastline and pounding surf today. I passed by a sign for Guy Menzies' Landing Site. Turns out he was the first person to fly solo from Australia to New Zealand. He used an Avro Avian, the same kind of plane that "Wop" May used to deliver diphtheria medication from Edmonton to Fort Vermillion in 1929. Neat connection, eh? At Franz Josef I was having a picnic lunch when a British couple walked by and noticed the Canadian flag on the bike. We chatted for a while, and they said they had been up to the glacier and were shocked by how much it had retreated. She had been here 35 years ago and had a photo from that visit. When I looked at her photo I could see the glacier was at the valley floor. The photo on her phone from today showed it had receded so far up the valley that you almost couldn't see it. I am planning to hike to the viewpoint tomorrow but thought I would ride to the trailhead to have a look before riding to Fox Glacier where I am staying the night. I did get a glimpse of the glacier from the road, but it was too cloudy to see the mountains. Hopefully it clears up tomorrow. Dinner was at the Cook Saloon in Fox Glacier where I feasted on a venison burger to help with the pesky “introduced” deer population.

Riding south on the Glacier Highway

Every town has an interesting church. (a lot of the motels have a Gideon's Bible too)

Lush coastal rain forest

Lots of long single-lane bridges crossing the rivers as they make it to the sea

An overcast day for the ride

Guy Menzies was the first person to fly solo from Australia to New Zealand

Seems like an unlikely name for a restaurant in a country that shouldn't have deer

Ah, the deer were introduced (along with thar and chamois)

Picnic in Franz Josef

There should be glaciers and snow capped mountains visible. Hopefully tomorrow.

February 14 – Fox Glacier

A Valentine’s Day spent hiking on the west side of the Southern Alps. I woke up in the middle of the night and saw that the stars were bright and clear, so I was really hoping after yesterday’s overcast skies that the mountains were clear for a hike to Lake Matheson in the morning. Bright blue skies greeted me, so after a bowl of granola I hopped on the bike for a short ride to the trailhead. The whole loop takes about 1.5 hours, and I was rewarded with stunning views of Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman over Lake Matheson. Afterwards, a nice cappuccino at the trailhead café was just the icing on the cake. Then I rode back to Franz Josef and hiked up to Sentinel Rock and to the end of the Franz Josef Glacier trail. The trail ended at a fence and warning sign. The trail had been compromised and was no longer safe for hiking. It wasn’t possible to see the toe of the glacier from this angle because it had retreated so far and there were information panels showing the extent of the glacier over time. Back in the town of Franz Josef I popped into the Wildlife Centre, and I must admit that I was disappointed with the centre. Not because the centre wasn’t interesting but because I have been spoiled by the incredible museums of Te Papa, Pancake Rocks and Māwhera. Still, they had a couple of kiwis and there was no glass barrier (as was the case in Rotorua) so it was really cool to be so close that I could have reached over the barrier and petted them. Later, in the White Pub for dinner, I met Howard and Karen from the UK. As we chatted, I mentioned I was from Canada and bought a bike in Auckland. Howard said, “Do you have a big Canadian flag on the left pannier?” I guess I had passed them on the road a day or two ago! After supper, the clouds had lifted a little, so I rode back to Lake Matheson and hiked to the viewpoint for some great sunset photos. A three-hike day!

A walk through the forest to get to the far side of Lake Matheson

Mirror reflection

Mt. Tasman and Mt. Cook from Reflection Island

Helpful

Riding from Fox Glacier back to Franz Josef, on a sunny day

Starting the Franz Josef Glacier Trail, with a side trip up Sentinel Rock

At Sentinel Rock are display panels showing the extent of the Franz Josef Glacier over time. Starting in 1865.

My photo taken from the same spot in 2025, you can't even see the toe of the glacier

Continuing the walk up the Franz Josef Glacier Trail

End of the trail and still can't see the toe of the glacier

Yes, really the end of the trail

Smokey the Bear says so

20 tourists had to be rescued a few years ago

The Wildlife Centre in Franz Josef has kiwis in their nocturnal habitat (no photos allowed)

"They have an earthy flavour. Like a piece of pork boiled in an old coffin."

For reference Calgary gets about 550mm.

Catholic church in Franz Josef

Third and final time on this glorious, 23 km stretch of road between Franz Josef and Fox Glacier towns.

A sunset walk after dinner to Lake Matheson

Walking back to the car park

Riding home after sunset

February 15 – Fox Glacier to Haast

Today I planned to ride to the end of the road, the southern terminus of the West Coast Road that is. Since it wasn’t a long ride today, I stopped at a café in Fox Glacier for a “dirty chai” and to peruse the map. Across the street was a sign for Glacier Viewpoint that backtracked past Lake Matheson. I had ignored it before, thinking I had seen the glacier from the lake. Since it was such a glorious day, and I had lots of time, I left the café, rode past the hotel and Lake Matheson another 4 kilometres to a short gravel section where there was the most amazing view of Fox Glacier (the glacier not the town). I had been seeing a small section of the glacier, the head of the glacier near the top of Mt. Tasman, but now I could see the whole thing. I was so glad I backtracked for this! Now, getting on the road for real, I once again rode past Lake Matheson, my hotel and the café in Fox Glacier (the town not the glacier) and turned south. I came to Bruce Bay, which had been preceded by a number of “view” signs, I wasn’t terribly impressed by the view of the bay. Just as I thought, I won’t bother stopping unless there is an ice cream stand, an ice cream stand showed up. Perfect. A real fruit ice cream while sitting on a rock on the breakwater overlooking Bruce Bay was quite pleasant. Further down the coast, at lunch time, I stopped at a picnic spot where a monument marked the 1965 completion of the highway that connected the entire west coast. I rode past Haast (my destination for the evening) and continued to the end of the road in Jackson Bay. That’s it, the length of the West Coast had been ridden, all the way from the Kohaihai River to Jackson Bay. Back in Haast I stayed at a holiday park that also had a motel. It was fun to be in a campground, the atmosphere is so different from a hotel, that I almost regretted not having brought my tent. Until I had to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. In the ensuite.

On the way to Fox Glacier (the town) for a cappuccino

Having a dirty chai instead of a cappuccino while perusing the map

Wow, the whole range

Fox Glacier

One of many one-lane bridges today

Leaving the viewpoint on the short gravel road section

Riding back past Lake Matheson, the hotel and Fox Glacier (the town) to turn south

Real fruit ice cream at Bruce Bay (the ice cream was worth stopping for, the bay not so much)

The monument dedicated to the completion of the highway in 1965. Picnic tables are tucked in behind the obelisk.

The longest one-lane bridge I've been on. No traffic lights but there were two pull outs for oncoming traffic.

Straight south from Haast Junction through coastal forests

Looking up one of the many rivers to the Southern Alps

Jackson Bay

The southern end of the West Coast Road

Not today sadly

Staying at a holiday park was fun

Making real fruit ice cream involves mixing frozen fruit with vanilla ice cream

Tracks for the north and west of the South Island

The ride in New Zealand so far

Chapter 4: South of South Island

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